My First European Hiking Adventure

Just as wifey and I arrived CDG airport and boarded the tram towards Chatelet le Halles, I can already sense my hurrying  urge of going hiking with France’s great outdoors-loving expats.  But that rushing thoughts of course has to put to hold first until I am finally done with settling down at our hotel and spend some precious time together with the wife who conceptualized our ten-days French type fall-spring escape on a romantic setting.  It was our 20^th year celebration of good friendship, different dreams shared together and yes,  happy marriage of course!

While walking our way to Tim Hotel le Louvre along  Rue Croix de Petit Champs, we passed by Rue de Rivoli corner Rue de L’Almiral Coligny sighting a Jack Wolfskin shop whom I understand just opened several months earlier.  It was great to know that the shop is just a corner away from our hotel.  I smiled thinking I can nose around and check-scan the shop before going to Au Vieux Campeur.

The temperature  around that time is at 8-10 degrees centigrade and I have been longing to really experience it since it’s my first time in Europe. I wonder how cold it would be on the mountains where there’s wind and some splashes of rain?  I planned this trip but brought only a set of trekking clothes plus a thermal underwear since I considered buying some stuff in Au Vieux Campeur in the Latin Quarter.

And so after spending some romantic French time eating out on a picnic by the Seine River, dating at lovely boulangeries and patisseries, visiting gardens and famous French landmarks, people watching at cafes by the street and of course shopping at some popular French bags and jewelry shops, it’s my time to check Paris’ neighboring outdoor havens together with my new found outdoor loving friends. 

Using France’s impressive Metro/RER train system can get you anywhere on time and with ease.  Traveling is so easy that I even took a nap and did not worry of missing out my target station since I understand that except for the lost time, going back to a missed-station will not cost a traveler anymore additional fare.  And it’s so great that it was really a big treat for a Filipino (and a third-world guy) like me!

I met Kefah, Carles, Chris on the trail and of course Amanda, the lovely brit who accidentally sprained her right ankle while trailing in the Versailles.  Kefah has done a bit of hillwalking in Scotland where he normally reside.  Carles, is from Barcelona living in Paris since 2011. He said he enjoys sharing good moments with friends. He used to do hiking either in Spain as well as in France. Hiking of 20-25 km/da.  Chris, the one who coordinated the hike with me loves various outdoor sports.  He call himself a hike guru and enjoys hiking for over 10 years, mostly on sundays & in Ile-de-France.  Sometimes in the moutains too : Jura, the Alps, Pyrénées, Lozère ... & in the rest of the world too BTW... Amanda, on the other hand  has done some tramping in the UK in the Peaks and the Lakes but said she haven't done anything for years.  I introduced myself to them as a “tropic tramper” on a holiday who wishes to try hiking nearby Paris countryside..  Been hiking for almost 2 decades. It relaxes my mind, refreshen my spirit and invigorates my body. Hiking is part of my lifestyle.

Kefah, Chris, Carles with G.Monty

We met many hikers who eventually joined us along.  Chris took the lead, Carles provided support on the group who joined us while I took the sweep role, patiently waiting for the leisurely walkers and showing them the way,  Kefah enjoyed taking pictures every step of the way.  He is fond of taking good landscapes, not people or faces like Filipinos generally do.  Amanda catched- up within the back middle still worried of her ankle but did not want to be left behind.

I was informed that it was the last hike of Kefah since he will be assigned somewhere in Morocco. As a send off hike, we had a little celebration with a bottle of premium French rouge brought by Kefah himself.  We stopped by and took a short rest at a Cherry blossom grove where we also advised Amanda what to do with her sprained ankle.    

We ended our hike somewhere at Bourg la Reine by around 7 o’clock in the evening. Though its my first time in a well structured place like France, going back to the city is worry free that I just need to look for an automated ticketing booth and buy a train ticket, get on board, take a nap while traveling back and voila……I am back!!!  At around 9 o’clock, I met my wife at the ”Le Thermidor” and had a storytelling dinner with her.  It was a grand experience that I will keep craving for more.

6:30 pm @ Bourg la Reine 

"Le Thermidor" 

With a permitting weather and great people around, I wish to be back and go out again with these hikers I met on those French trails.  I have learned some and taught some too!!! 

Tail hiking in Fontainebleau

Simple Pleasures: Mongpong

Gracious, that’s how I best describe the island of Mongpong.

It is a fishing island barangay of the municipality of Sta. Cruz, province of Marinduque where people chose

to live with minimal desires.  Cordial, submissive & courteous I was welcomed by locals of sitio Malakundong one noontime when the public banca which I boarded landed on its shore. With pure backpacking adventure in mind I knew I am about to have a stimulating stay on the island.

Under the shade of a coconut tree, I was approached by a motorcycle rider asking me where I am heading so he can take me. I introduced myself and explain my purpose: “seeking for some great travel destinations” and taking pictures for posting over the internet.  As other villagers heard my brief introduction….immediately they comprehended and started off a little conversation with me. Later on, after some exchanges of pleasantries I was warmly welcomed by the local neighborhood and was openly offered anything I would need free of charge.

With my stove and cookset ready, I prepared my quick lunch and suggested them to join me and strike some more casual dialogues for more information.  Afterwards, I was offered to stay at an impressive asian-inspired hut where I can also dwell for the night courtesy of a generous owner.  With my new found friends, we scheduled an itinerary where I will be accompanied by them whenever they are available: tramping around, hiking to “Rekudo”, the island’s rocky cliff, touring by banca checking spots that could have great tourism potentials and finally fishing and swimming by the beach.  While it was still midday we exchanged some more enjoyful tete-a-tete then decided to take a nap while they left me alone enjoying the view of the beautiful white sand shoreline and pristine waters on a clear blue sky. 

Tramping to sitio Bayanan showcases impressive Mongpong lifestyle.  Houses have clean and beautiful lawns of blue grass with some local flowers in bloom.  Houses are adorned with variety of colors diverse in styles somehow demonstrating their indulgence of a life in other places they know and admire. The island has limited supply of electricity but most houses do have solar panels for house lighting during the absence of regular electric supply.    Although the island does not have road networks that we are familiar with, narrow concrete pathway connects all sitios of the entire island instead.  Water wells are abundant in the island. Fresh drinking water however is scarce to deficient.  Houses have rain water tanks to catch every drop of rain water and store them for their kitchen or drinking needs. Others with some more money to spare preferred buying purified drinking water available in the nearest mainland Marinduque or Quezon province.

Going on the opposite direction to sitio Ungab and Layag-layag is rather tranquil having fewer houses but coconut orchard abounds.  The shoreline at Sitio Ungab is a fish trading spot of the island.  And while walking along I met a lady carrying her husband’s catch and offered me 3 huge “sibo” for dinner.  For a nominal price, we will have a special dinner with my friend/guide RJ who volunteered to prepare and cook the fish at a neighbor’s outdoor kitchen. 

“Pangulong” or commercial fishing vessels frequented the area. I was told that most crewmen of the pangulong who frequented the area are Mongpong villagers. Whenever a pangulong visits the area, local maglalaot or fishermen get near it and ask for some catch.  With less talking, crewmen just throw-in several kilos of fish at the fishermen’s bancas, bundles of previously catched squids that were dried  or even freshly cooked fish and steamed rice the crewmen prepared for breakfast.  While touring along the island coastline, I got to experience going near the pangulong and be given some catch as treats.

As we travel around the island, school of “Barungoy” flying fish demonstrates their prowess as if welcoming me with warmth and joyfully flying along our way.  It was a wonderful display of nature as I witness this blissful affair being shown at my presence.  Even more surprising to my astonishment is my first experience seeing fish literally running on water’s surface.   And yes, they jump, run and use their tails to do that.  I was blown away with what I have seen.  Mongpong villagers call them “Bugiw”. And they laughed at me for my bewilderment.  It was a great treat, really.

Wandering back to Bayanan  alone this time is an excitement.  I wished to check on what’s with the pier and craving to have some halo-halo which we ( RJ, Jerson and me)formerly had.  There’s nothing much with the pier: no store or restaurant or even by-standers to my surprise.  However, at the nearby neighborhood about 200 meters from the pier is the center of Mongpong with a barangay hall, some sari-sari stores, a school (elementary and highschool) some residential houses and a solar powered LED lamp post that illuminates the area during nighttime. Beside the barangay hall is the halo-halo stand where we bought and enjoyed_____ a day earlier.

Mongpong is famous for its beautiful land bridge rock formation they call Ungab rock formation.  But just recently, when a group of guests from mainland Marinduque visited the place a huge and charming “Walo-walo” sea snake   showed-up near the rock formation and socially swam around them.  According to villagers, Walo-walo sea snakes are keepers of the place for it is believed to have treasures buried somewhere.      

During my first day tour on the island I already noticed this unassumming “bahay kubo” when I got to pass-by the place near the “balon”. And so the next time I walked towards the area, eager and excited, I took the chance of meeting its owner who has a colorful bungalow house close to it.  The modest owner happens to have an uncle whom I was told to be my “kababayan”.   And just after some short introduction of my purpose to the island….the kind owner promptly allowed me to use the hut to my delight.   Later that day, I grabbed my rucksack and transferred to the hut to dwell-in the rest of my island stay.  Peaceful in solitude, the sunset was as lovely as I watched time flies until dusks.  Then later, I invited a distant neighbor named “Buddy” to have dinner with me, asked him to stay the rest of the night as I listen to some more stories about Mongpong.

Mongpong is lovable.  More than a treasure trove of exquisite natural beauties, it is the home of gentle and hospitable people.  It is where I got to learn “tabing” or “excuse me”:  a common opening word of any villager’s statement.

Malakundong sunset

View from "Rekudo"

Palumpon-bato

Layag-layag view point

As I leasve the island, I realized the significance of simplicity as a prelude to satisfaction.  Simple does not necessarily mean short.  Simple is not overwhelmed.  when someone is not overwhelmed...he is not confused.  Simple maybe less but is also means few choices, so its uncomplicated.  Simple is clutter-free and is therefore clear and easy to understand.  That is what Mongpong to me: Simple yet truly pleasurable.